Notoriously
rugged and dramatically beautiful, South Africa’s Wild Coast certainly
lives up to its name. And as Nick van der Leek recently discovered, it
also makes for a very memorable holiday destination (as long as you
arrive overland!).
The 280 km strip of coastline, extending north from present day East
London and south from Port Edward in KwaZulu-Natal, has become a serial
killer of ships. In fact, shipping disasters such as the peppercorn
carrying
Santo Alberto in 1593 and the
Santo Espirito
(transporting Ming porcelain from China) 15 years later became so common
that many historians believe that these losses preceded the
disintegration of the Portuguese empire.
Luckless survivors of 16th and 17th century shipwrecks found the land
north of the Fish River and south of Durban already inhabited by one of
South Africa’s largest tribes, the amaXhosa (a word thought to mean
“fierce”). Imagine the travails, then, of the survivors of the
Stavenisse, a Dutch ship that sank near Coffee Bay in 1686. During the same time, two English ships, the
Bonaventura and the
Good Hope, also suffered similar misfortunes.
The crews of all three ships – having encountered one another in
similarly unpleasant circumstances – decided to work together to
construct a makeshift boat in order to sail back to Cape Town. En route
they encountered and rescued more survivors. Among these was a French
teenager who had already had his fair share of adventure, which included
smuggling himself to America, visiting the Far East and most recently,
enjoying the protection of a local Xhosa chief. Having learnt the Xhosa
language, the young lad (just 13 years old) acted as a guide and
interpreter for his companions.
Even fairly recently the Wild Coast still manages to rustle up some maritime action and claim the odd ship or two...
Read the rest.